Technique

Lead paint chips are hazardous

Due to the amount of older homes in the Bay Area, we run into many homes that have been at one time or another painted with lead-based paint.

Prior to the 1970s lead was used as a binding agent which thickened the paint. The harmful effects of lead were not discovered until more recent times, and the use of lead paint was discontinued in the 1970s. Houses built prior to the 1970s are likely to contain lead-based paint. Older communities like Alameda, Oakland, Richmond and Berkeley all have many homes with old lead paint.

As lead paint ages, it can start flaking. Exposure to lead paint dust or chips can cause serious health problems, especially to children and pregnant women. So, if you live in or own an older home, you need to know how to protect yourself and others.

There are various test kits that are available to test your home, you can even send samples to a lab for testing. However if you have a home that was built prior to the 1970’s it is safe to assume that you have lead paint, therefore any paint contractor you use should be EPA certified. Although it is not encouraged for even the most experienced homeowner to work around lead paint, EPA certified contractors are trained in all of the techniques and safety standards that are necessary to protect workers, homeowners and neighbors.

RAYCO Tips:

• Wire brushing or wet hand scraping with the aid of a non-flammable solvent or abrasive compound. Liquid paint removers can be used on small areas, such as windowsills, doors and woodwork. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warning labels before purchasing and using.
• It is important for workers to use personal protective equipment, such as gloves, safety glasses and disposable coveralls when using some paint removers.
• Wet hand sanding and/or power sanding with HEPA filters. Only wet hand sanding and/or an electric sander equipped with a HEPA filtered vacuum attachment should be used. Dry hand sanding should never be done.
• Exterior work should be done on calm days, and wet-misting or vacuuming should be used to control lead dust and paint chips during removal.
• The ground around the building should be protected with heavy (6-mil) plastic sheets. The outer edges of the sheeting should be raised to trap dust, debris, and liquid wastes.

         Although very resilient, Stucco will tend to crack. This is due to normal expansion and contraction of the home. Long and/or deep cracks will let moisture inside your home’s walls. These should never be just patched up and forgotten. You will want a professional to diagnose the cause because cracks can be a result of a structural problem.

  Assuming there isn’t a need for a professional:

 Step 1: Use a chisel and hammer to remove stucco from behind crack. After you are done the surface created should be at a uniform angle and a bit larger than the front surface of the crack.

 Step 2: Take a wire brush and remove any loose debris.

 Step 3: Remove loose dust (a paint brush works well)        

Some stucco cracks are caused by structrual problems

 Step 4: Squeeze caulking along the crack.

 Step 5: While wet use a putty knife to smooth caulk into and around the crack.

 Step 6: It will take 6-8 hours for caulking to dry.

 RAYCO Tips:

•  Periodically spray the siding with a garden hose and examine the surface for any damage.
•  If you spot any small holes or cracks, promptly apply a product to seal the breach. For large damaged areas, consult a professional.
•  When caulking a crack use Elastomeric Caulking.
•  When painting your stucco home, only use Elastomeric paint and contractors who have experience applying such paints.
•  If you are not a professional, pressure washers are not usually recommended because just one careless swipe of the nozzle may accidently damage the stucco.